Once lead hazards throughout the home have been identified, the next step is to decide which remediation to use with each hazard. If you chose to hire a licensed professional to do a Lead Risk Assessment, your report will clearly outline one or more options for each hazard. If you decided to go the DIY route, you’ll have to do some research to determine which remediation techniques are appropriate for each hazard. I highly recommend reading Chapter 11 of the HUD Guidelines for the Evaluation and Control of Lead-Based Paint in Housing https://www.hud.gov/sites/documents/LBPH-13.PDF. This chapter explains all the possible “Interim Control” options for addressing each hazard.
However, while Cleveland’s law only requires Interim Controls, there may be hazards where “Abatement” is the best option. When choosing between Interim Controls and Abatement, the following should be considered:
· Interim Controls will have lower initial costs, but there will be long term maintenance needed. Cleveland’s law will require recertification of the lead safe status of your home every two years, so there will be recurring costs.
· Abatement methods will typically have greater initial costs, but there will be little if any maintenance required.
Other considerations are availability of funds, condition of component involved, and whether you can do the work yourself or have to hire a professional.
IMPORTANT NOTE: According to federal law, anyone doing remediation - including property owners - have to obtain a Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) certification. This means you the landlord, and any professionals you hire will need to be RRP certified. Information on how to get certified can be found at https://leadsafecle.org/lead-safe-workers .
So, what are some examples of the decisions you’ll have to make? Let’s look at a few common components:
· Deteriorated paint on walls and ceilings. Most of the time, you’ll choose the Interim Control option called “Paint Film Stabilization”. While I often refer to this as repainting, it’s actually quite a bit more than that. All debris and paint chips must be removed, the surface made smooth and cleanable, application of a primer, and a topcoat of paint by the same manufacturer. Chapter 11 of the HUD Guidelines gives a more detailed description. However, if these surfaces have been significantly damaged by water leaks for example, the Abatement option of replacing the drywall may be best.